Tower bridge and beyond by bike

Looking back at Tower Bridge from Bermondsey

London’s surprise of late summer sunshine brings back memories of the glorious sunshine we had one weekend in April and the unexpected cycle journey we went on.

There had been no map or plan, but we were keen to escape London.  Having already cycled west along the river Thames curiosity tempted us to discover the way out east?  A couple of friends were keen to join us and enthusiastically tagged along for the adventure…

I knew this was going to be a great journey as we rested upon our handle bars admiring the architectural beauty of the Thames barrier glistening in the sunshine, standing neatly in a row like brave soldiers, in the tidal river.

We had already cycled a small distance to get here, along National Cycle Route 4, passing the grandeur of Tower bridge, wobbling over the cobbled streets of Bermondsey, weaving in and around the canals of Canada Water and zipping through the groups of tourists stood captivated by the impressive National Maritime Museum at Greenwich.  The morning air was still crisp as we left London behind to join National Cycle Route 1.  A route that would guide us along the coast and into Kent.

The Thames Barrier - Impressive engineering!

We had the trail to ourselves as we all pedalled happily in the sunshine, passing the busy ferry crossing in Woolwich.  It was so quiet and the cool breeze was welcomed.  Heading into the town of Erith we discovered many crumbling wooden wharfs and grimy industrial buildings looking wonky and awkward in the water.

In Erith we stopped for a quick bite at The Running horses pub where the sandwiches were as stuffed full as a cooked goose.  Back by the river’s edge the trail became extremely picturesque, buildings gave way to vast pastures of wavy grass and swampy marshes, small boats reflected in the calm waters of the river, and birds sang, circling in the air as the impressive Dartford bridge stretched for eternity before us.

So calm and peaceful
The very long Dartford bridge

The trail departed the rivers company and the signs took us down streets lined with houses, around busy round-a-bouts and over motorways guiding us to the town of Gravesend to eventually reunite with us the river.

Cycling into Gravesend
Giant ships

It had widened and was now dotted with massive cargo ships that made you feel very small indeed.  The sun baked down on our backs as our thirst grew.  The historic riverside inn, the Three Daws, dating back to the 1400’s seem like a perfect opportunity for a refreshing drink so of course we stopped.

We sun bathed our legs and watched the world go by.  We were pleased with our efforts and decided to keep going.  We cycled on through Gravesend’s river side parks where families were having picnics and enjoying the afternoon sunshine.

Unfortunately the trail took a sudden turn away from the river and we detoured on tight paths down the side of concrete buildings and through derelict warehouses covered in rust and heavily vandalised.  We had to avoid huge amounts of scattered glass before encountering an endless white gravel path with grassy fields either side of it.  We picked our pace up and raced on ahead of our friends as pebbles flew off our tyres.

Watch out for the glass!

A few miles on and the Boyfriend’s phone rang…one of our friends had a flat tyre. We turned back going to their rescue with the puncture repair kit.  Glass had to be removed from the tyre and quickly patched up.  It wasn’t long before we were pedalling ahead of our friends again, but then the phone rang again – This time our other friend had a flat tyre!  We went back to save them and found glass to be the culprit again.  It was hidden deep in the rubber wheel.

Third time lucky and we finally made it to the end of the gravel road without a puncture.

Rape flowers showing off!

We found ourselves on tiny back roads winding us to the town of Rochester.  The fields of rape flowers gleamed in the afternoon sunshine like a block of butter.  Soon the countryside disappeared and was replaced with buildings – we knew Rochester was close.

A place to rest our weary legs

Our confidence in the signs eventually failed us. We are unsure how it happened, but we became extremely lost and it was beginning to get dark. We thought that cycling through the underground tunnel would get us back on track, but a huge road sign stated that bicycles were not allowed through it.

We back tracked a bit and with the aid of an iPhone Map we managed to eventually cycle over the River Medway and through Rochester to find accommodation at the Ship & Trades pub down in the historic dockyard area.  In the end we had cycled over 60 miles and were ready for a shower and a big hearty meal.  It had been a day of contrasts and we all looked forward to exploring Rochester after a good night’s sleep.

More photos of this ride can be found on my Facebook site.

118 thoughts on “Tower bridge and beyond by bike

  1. The writing style is really engrossing and as I read through the article I felt it was me who was riding on the bike. An excellent mix of text and pictures with a life of its own.

  2. Bike touring of any kind is just about my favourite way to see a place. Also I love being on my bike. Great photos. You have inspired me to go on another tour. Cheers.

  3. What a beautiful photos and thank you for the great sharing. I have been in London in 2009 and just walking across the tower bridge. Only that time, I’ve just found out that this is not a London bridge, haha

  4. I think we followed your trail a few years back when we went on the “Light Railway” to Greenwich. What a great, evocative post. Thanks for sharing and congratulations on being Freshly Pressed!

  5. What a wonderful blog and beautiful photos. Thanks for taking us along on your London adventure. I wish I knew how to ride a bike, it would be a beautiful place to start with. I love the area around Tower Bridge. My mother told me a lot of stories about it. She used to live there.

  6. I love the concept of your blog! It is evident that travels by foot or by bike give you a more personable experience with the world you live in. When we’re driving we only focus our eyes in one direction, but when you have the opportunity to take your travels outdoors your eyes have the freedom to look in all directions, to divert your path unexpectedly and explore. There’s more to our world than just paved roads, and thankfully your blog is opening our eyes to it! Thank you!

  7. I am from Canada and in my imagination London was a foggy and rainy City. But I was lucky and happy to see bright sunny days at the beginning of December 2009. It was big surprise and gift for tourist to enjoy that Great City at the sunny days. Thank you for bringing to the hidden places around London. Absolutely nice and interesting pictures, great post. Well done.

  8. Great text, great pictures.
    I cycled the route from London to Dover myself in summer 2010 as part of a trip along the Eurovelo 5 from the UK to Brindisi in southern Italy. I loved the contrasts between the grim industrial heritage and the beauty of the Kent countryside. I now run the website CyclingEurope.org and I’ll add a link to your post in the Eurovelo 5 section of the site (under ‘the other Eurovelos) for others to read your account. You can read my own account in my book, Good Vibrations: Crossing Europe on a Bike Called Reggie. Full details at http://CyclingEurope.org .
    Cheers & happy cycling
    Andrew

  9. Loved reading about your trip. Great pictures!!!!
    I’m a real fan of cycle trips – and living in Holland (Brit abroad) I am in the perfect place to go on loads of cycle rides (the land of bikes).

  10. Great that you live in a place like that. Over here in Bangladesh, there is hardly a place for cycling in the urban areas (I live in the capital city — Dhaka). Wherever I cast my eyes I can only see traffic jam. I can’t cycle, though. I wanted to learn during my childhood, but now I don’t. It won’t pay off. There is no safe road for cycling in the city.

  11. Sometime’s we are too busy rushing around with our day to day life to see the simple beauty around us. And you have captured that perfectly in these pictures, thanks for sharing

  12. I admire your bravery – cycling in London is way too scary for me! I do love wandering round and about in London – what I do is “Take a random double decker till I see something interesting, jump off and walk”, which has led to some interesting finds.

    I haven’t wandered downriver yet, though – all my river trips have been up round Richmond and beyond. Shall have to try it, maybe next summer when the chemo is over and I have some freaking energy again! Shall bookmark this page for inspiration when that moment comes.

    Congrats of Freshly Pressed, too.

  13. I remember that gloriously sunny week in April…the park as we BBQ’ed our lunch was a blanket of shirtless men and bikini clad women like any proper sunny London day 😉

    We were actually at the O2 one of those sunny weekends and I was making a poor attempt at a tan across from that big metal sculpture you photographed in North Greenwich (in your facebook album). Your photo’s are just amazing (I can’t say I’ve ever been impressed by that particular sculpture but you almost made it magnificent).

    Loved your visual journey by bike, beautiful!

  14. What an adventurous day! I’ve recently moved to London and I’m inspired to follow you in your bicycle tracks 🙂 A little concerned about the glass ridden track though, just as well you travel prepared with puncture kit!

  15. This is nice….the photos and everything. I want to start riding my bicycle soon, I need some exercises and visit these beautiful places sometimes. It’s hard to find the time and energy to do it though. How long have you been doing this?

    1. I am glad you stopped by – thanks for your comments. I have been cycling for years and the blog I have only been doing now for about 5-6 months? I hope you get out on that bike of yours soon, you will love it!

  16. Stunning photographs. “impressive engineering” is a huge understatement underneath your one photo along the river. What are those? Service ports? It is nice to know someone else notices the same things. Great blogging. Thank you so much for sharing your photos. Angelique

    1. Thanks for your lovely comments – that photo is of the Thames Barrier – it protects London from flooding, quite something to see as they are rather big in size!

  17. Great photos! Brings back memories – we crossed the Dartford bridge several times when we were in the UK! Thanks for sharing and congrats on being freshly pressed!

  18. Good times! I’m not even a bike rider (2 left feet, or is that not an excuse?) but the Thames is a great river to wander beside too. It just takes longer. Spent some happy time at Greenwich in the Summer, and will look forward to following you on your travels.

  19. Your pictures are great; I especially loved the one of the Thames Barrier.

    I remember saying to my best friend in 6th grade, “I love my bike!” She huffly responded, “You can’t love a bike. You can only love a person or an animal”

    But secretly, I loved my bike anyway.

    Ronnie

  20. Keep on riding. Are you going to be cycling around London during the 2012 Olympics or hightailing out of town?

    We lived and stayed, cycling around in Vancouver, BC when 2010 Winter Olympics were on.

  21. I love how you choose subjects that typically wouldn’t be considered “touristy” type shots — there’s such beauty in the simplicity here!

    Thank you for sharing,

    Mikalee

  22. Beautiful photos! I love that you are sharing these because I can live vicariously through your adventures!! And one day when I make it back, I will take some of these trails!

  23. We love your blog! Great pix; sweet balance of the pastoral and industrial. We really like your writing style too. It feels as if we’re cycling right along with you — thanks for sharing your bike joy with bikeless adventurers like us.

  24. I was brought up near the Barrier, around Woolwich and Shooters Hill. A nice trip down memory lane for me.

    Jim

  25. I love the area around Tower Bridge. My mother-in-law used to live there, and coffee and a walk on a Sunday morning was a great start to the day.

    Alas, my bike has been “resting” in the garage since we had a child. I’m looking forwards to the day when he can come out with us again.

      1. Enough exposure of your sight to England’s awesome sceneries will soon get your riding on two wheels as if you’re magnetized by its beauty. Great shots! englandtriptips.com

  26. Thames barrier, built to prevent the river flooding the city. Sounds like another great journey, great photos and glad you had good weather (winter is revisiting us!)

  27. In the photo captioned with “Impressive engineering!” – what are those?

    Asides from things like glass, I kind of like going through industrial areas (in daylight). Kind of shows what exactly runs or supports a city. Bummer about the flat tires. But the rape field was worth it – I hope!

    1. That photo is of the Thames Barrier – it was built to protect London from flooding as the Thames is tidal. I agree industrial areas are great as long as there isn’t a pile of glass about!

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